MSFW 2011 Designer Series Night 4

International Model Kate Peck.

The last night of the Designer Series for MSFW was a bit more laid back, stylists showing off their dance moves to MC Hammer’s “You can’t touch this” when the hair and make-up had been completed.
The evenings hairstyle did require a concert pianists touch to properly back comb the hair for the shape. Kevin Cross, KEVIN.MURPHY’s director of training explained the need for a proper tease with, “It is the petticoat under the dress. The back brush gives the foundation of texture.” The top hair was smoothed over the massive volume of hair to create a “beehivey, gramma with a 60′s and 70′s aspect and an African influence thrown in with the pony,” explained Kevin Murphy. “I wanted something simple and groovy – something a young girl would like. In session work it is hard to use pins, so we use sewing – pins show up in the photographs. In our SEWING.KIT the needles are blunt, we prepped the hair with HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY – it’s my new favorite thing. I loved the swinging ponies from last night – the designers for tonight are more alternative, and having an eclectic mix of things makes it modern.” Kevin’s favorite part of the look were the little wispy bits in front (they were sewn into a bit of a mini ponytail, the hair rubbed through the fingers to create the look.) It was “girly but not too overt, a simple, humble hairstyle.”
The make-up again was flawless, and all about the nude brow with a pop of color on the lip, the skin being a natural sateen texture with the skin looking hydrated and a bit of sheen on the cheeks. “The brow harmonizes with the hair color – we used eye primer through the brows (eye will survive) that has a blonding affect. We did a nude clear eye, and used lipstick “Hara” from the divine goddess collection for Napolean Perdis.” Hara is the goddess of happiness. The make-up was kept simple, like the trends for the season, and a bit of COLOR.BUG can be spotted on some of the models.

 

 

MSFW 2011 Designer Series Night 3


The tone for the evening was set early backstage when while Kevin Murphy was briefing stylists on the evenings hair technique scores of scantily clad male models arrived on the scene. The evenings theme revolved around the male with the female models softening the look with feminine silhouettes.
The hair was bit of a process, but well worth it considering the outcome that was presented on the runway. “We slicked the hair back very tight, and added a bit of punk to it, think Barbie on acid,” said Mister Murphy. Wefts of magenta and pink hair were sewn into the ponytails, and “sex tape” was utilized to secure the look. (Sex tape adheres to itself working like duct tape would, obviously being less painful as it sticks to itself, and not the hair.)The inspiration came from Josie and the Pussycats, and certainly gave a new spin the the dip-died trend we have been seeing as of late. Working mainly with models Mister Murphy is always creating “temporary trends” and tonight’s most certainly allowed for a pop of color for the evening. (This look also transcends nicely into the forthcoming launch of COLOR.BUG as this look can be recreated at home by those less skilled in the implementation of at-home extensions.) As the models sauntered down the runway the pony’s sashayed back and forth ever so nicely, pulling some of the attention away from the half naked buff models.
The make-up, as always, was lovely – white eyeliner being used to tie into it’s usage in the clothing on the catwalk. Lead make-up artist Kate Squires wanted a clean, fresh, sporty feel. “It is a bit of easy transition into the season -crisp, clean white eyeliner that pops. A lot of people tend to wear a lot of black around the eyes, white is a nice contrast. We don’t do a lot of lash as it would may conflict with the white liner.” A light gloss on the lips was applied for a clean clear wet look on the lip. Kate thinks the look is very wearable, and is a modern way of utilizing liner. “White is a trend right now in fashion and it meshes nicely with the make-up.”

 

MSFW 2011 Designer Series Night 2

 

As the week moves along at MSFW the fashion walking down the runways has become bolder, with the hair and make-up complementing the progression. The hair was definitely a more prominent feature of last’s nights runway show, requiring quite an intricate set to execute the look. The theme for the evening was ‘Boutique’ and it was filled with resort elements. The make-up was most recognizable with the delicious bold tomato red lip, full with glossy accents of gold and bronze. This was used in conjunction with the overriding 70′s theme, having pulled the rustic goldy feel from it. “The detail of the make-up is with the texture, and works well with the texture of the hair. The light will catch the gold hilites, keeping it in tune with the summer feel,” said lead make-up artist Kate Squires.
Kevin Murphy pulled from his vast year’s of knowledge to create a Rik Rak set for the hair, having been inspired by the perms of the 70′s. “I wanted a Bianca Jagger/Stevie Nicks sort of look.” Theatrical geisha pins were used, stylists whirling the hair around them in a criss-cross formation, then heating up with a flat-iron. “The clothes are 70′s, and a lot more spirited and interesting. In photographic work you are always trying to take all the old techniques and make them new. I meshed the 50′s and 70′s – all the nostalgic elements are very important.” When asked how comes upon a look he said, “It is a natural progression – one day you just wake up and decide.”